L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, JUNE 1, 2017 www.italoamericano.org 34 L'Italo-Americano LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES W h e n e v e r I t h i n k o f ricotta, I get a little extra-nostalgic. As a teenager, back in the 1990's, I spent two amazing years with my family in Italy. The internet w a s a r o u n d , i t w a s w i d e l y a c c e p t e d t h a t p e o p l e l i v e d together without marrying, and f e m a l e s w o r e p a n t s ! B u t i n southern Italy, it was still 'old school' in so many ways. Young people were so eager for things to change but little did they know that they were the last generation to know the way it 'was'. On a regular basis, it was as though I was living in the stories I had heard growing up. There was a particular daily occur- rence that gave me a special sense of connection with my m o t h e r ' s c h i l d h o o d s t o r i e s . Mom would tell us often about how poor life was during her childhood, especially coming from a large family of 9 chil- dren. Ricotta was one food that was readily available and made a weekly appearance on the din- ner table usually mixed into a rice or pasta dish. 'U ricottaru', t h e r i c o t t a m a n , w o u l d g o around town selling fresh ricotta straight out of the little hand- made wicker baskets they were formed in, about a quarter the size of the containers we are familiar with today. My nonna would buy 4 or 5 for the entire family. At 50 lira apiece, or 5 cents, there was no way they could have one each. My moth- er recalls that both of her nonnos adored their grandchildren and would often buy them a fresh ricotta as a treat if they were out w h e n t h e r i c o t t a m a n c a m e a r o u n d . T h e y w o u l d p u t o u t their hand and the little wicker basket would be turned upside down in their palm to empty the still-warm ricotta. M y f i r s t t i m e s e e i n g t h e 'ricottaru' I almost cried. Weird I know, but it "put me in the moment" and confirmed the sto- ries I had heard from mom. I approached the old lady carrying the extra large wicker basket on her head, smiled and handed her 1 0 0 0 l i r a , o n e d o l l a r . S h e reached up without any hesita- tion and pulled out a mini bas- ket. I reached out my hand, half expecting a pile of runny cheese. Instead, a perfect little mould of ricotta, strained just enough to hold its form. So fresh that it was still warm and I could feel a couple drips of whey trickling through the cracks of my fin- gers. So, this is a long story just to get you to a cake recipe but as is the case with so much of the food in Italy, the journey is the best part. W e t h i n k o f r i c o t t a a s a cheese when in fact it is a by- product of cheese-making. Ri- cotta, meaning twice cooked, is yet another example of frugal Italian ways. "Waste not, want not," Ricotta is made using leftover whey from the cheese-making process. It is re-cooked to extract the remaining albumin proteins in the whey, therefore leaving nothing to waste. Many farmers w i l l e v e n u s e t h e r e m a i n i n g nutrient-rich water after making ricotta in their livestock feed. Filled pasta and cannoli shells are what usually come to mind when one thinks of ricotta but it is actually one of the most versa- tile 'cheese' products you can buy. Ricotta can be found in recipes for breakfast, lunch, or dinner and part of an appetizer, main dish, or dessert. This perfected ricotta cake from Nonna Olga is delicious and there is nobody that makes it quite like her. This authentic family recipe is over 80 years o l d . N o n n a O l g a r e m e m b e r s enjoying this treat herself as a little girl. Her mother taught her how to make this delicious cake and now she makes it often for family and friends. The hint of golden rum in this recipe is key. It is great for any holiday, but don't kid yourself, put a candle or two in it for your next birth- day party - it's that good! For the dough • 2 cups all-purpose flour • 1 cup sugar • 1 teaspoon baking powder • 1/2 cup shortening • 3 large eggs lightly beaten with a fork • 1 tablespoon golden rum For the filling • 4 5 4 g m r i c o t t a c h e e s e (15%MF) softened slightly with a fork • 1 cup sugar • 2 packets vanilla powder • 2 large eggs + 1 egg yolk (beaten with a fork) • 2 tablespoon golden rum For the dough Mix together flour, sugar and baking powder. Add the shorten- ing and mix with hands to form pea-sized pieces. Add the eggs and rum. Mix together by hand to form a dough, being careful not to over-mix. Wrap dough with plastic wrap and set aside while making the filling. For the filling Add the sugar and vanilla powder to the ricotta. Add the rum to the eggs then add this mixture to the ricotta mixture. Whisk all the ingredients togeth- er gently for about 30 seconds until well mixed. Assembly 1. Lightly spray the sides of a 1 0 " r o u n d s p r i n g f o r m w i t h cooking spray and line the bot- tom with parchment paper. 2. Take ¾ of the dough and roll it out on a lightly floured surface into a circle (1/4" thick) that is large enough to fit the bottom and sides of the pan. 3 . C u t a w a y a n y e x c e s s dough from the sides of pan. Use extra pieces of dough to patch any holes that may have formed. 4. Pour the filling into the dough-covered pan and use a spatula to even out the top. 5. Gather remaining pieces of dough and roll out onto a lightly floured surface. With a pastry cutter, cut ¾" wide strips of dough and place over the filling in a lattice pattern. 6. Bake at 350 degrees for 35- 40 minutes or until very light golden in color. 7. While still warm, sprinkle the top lightly with sugar. 8 . W h e n c o o l e d , s p r i n k l e lightly with icing sugar, cut into pieces and enjoy. We think of ricotta as a cheese when in fact it is a by-product of cheese-making. Photo: Nonna's Way Ricotta Cake - A Cake for any Occasion ANNA ROMANO & ANGELA DESALVO Ricotta is made using leftover whey from the cheese-making process. It is re- cooked to extract the remaining albumin proteins in the whey, therefore lea- ving nothing to waste. Photo: Nonna's Way

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