L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 36 L'Italo-Americano Primitivo: What's in a Name W hile its name conjures up images of primitive rusticity, Primitivo, one of Italy's ten most planted red wine grape varieties, can pro- duce full and harmonious wines, and with age, a velvety texture. One of Italy's earliest ripening grapes, Primitivo derives its name from Latin and Italian terms primativus and primatic- cio, respectively, words that describe its tendency toward early ripening. In Puglia, its Italian home, Primitivo is harve- sted as early as August. Reaching consensus on the origin of Primitivo hasn't been as easy as giving it a name. Especially as it became clear that genetic testing would show Italy's Primitivo to be one in the same as California's Zinfandel and Croatia's Tribidrag. Italians took on the position that the variety arrived in Italy via Greek settlers or Phoenician traders (the origin provided on Primitivo's Consorzio website). In hopes of claiming a native son, some folks in the US argued for California's Zinfandel as a native species. Keeping the faith with that idea would prove a tad difficult, however. Vitis vinifera isn't nati- ve to North America. Primitivo, though, has also been shown to be one parent of Plavic Mali. Point, Croatia. In Italy, Primitivo is cultiva- ted almost entirely in Puglia. Two main biotypes, Primitivo di Gioia del Colle (province of Bari) and Primitivo di Manduria (province of Taranto) make high alcohol wines with aromas and flavors of red cherry, plum and strawberry. Oftentimes, notes of tobacco and savory herb add complexity. The wines of Gioia del Colle can show comparative lightness, verve, and sleeker tan- nins than the Manduria wines which, for their part, lean toward greater ripeness and plumpness in the mouth. In either case, when not made well, Primitivo can lose its message in transla- tion to a high and unbalanced percentage of alcohol. Interestingly, a late harvest style of Primitivo made by pro- ducer Attanasio happened to recently find its way onto my tasting radar. From vineyards located along Puglia's Salento peninsula, Carlo Attanasio makes his late harvest bottling using on- the-vine appassimento, that is to say, partially drying the grapes on the vine. The idea is that nutrients continue to feed the Primitivo grapes while on the vine, allowing sugar levels to rise naturally. As it is the natural ten- dency of Primitivo grapes to accumulate sugars easily, a late harvest Primitivo wine would seem a rather natural conclusion of nature's course. The result of Attanasio's effort is a voluptuous wine I find reminiscent in profi- le, weight and texture to Amarone di Valpolicella. In vin- tages tasted, 2010 and 2013, the wines weigh in with 16.5% alcohol and 2% residual sugar. According to Attanasio, the late harvest overripe style more accu- rately communicates the true message and nature of Primitivo and allows a deeper complexity to develop. After tasting the wines, it's hard to disagree. In each vintage, the wines resolve the higher alcohol and residual sugar of their overripe style with more balance and harmony than do many Primitivo wines of more moderate alcohol/residual sugar levels. It is an unfortunate reality that a wine like Attanasio's late harvest Primitivo can face an uphill battle in the market. To put it bluntly, the mainstream wine press had for years so demonized residual sugar in wine (association with cheap, ill- made wine), that potential con- sumers nowadays react negati- vely at the mere mention of it. You will undoubtedly want to flush your mind of such nonsen- se. Wine doesn't need to bone dry to be "good". What is impor- tant is that residual sugar (or per- cent of alcohol, for that matter) is in equilibrium with a wine's other components. In the end, it is all about harmony, balance and emotion. There are wonderfully unique and exciting wines out there. Anyone can find them. But, appreciating their tensions and pleasures can require an open mind. We cannot make ourselves like something which we do not. But, to educate ourselves in such a way as to understand why a wine is the way it is, why a pro- ducer made a particular wine in a certain way, can yield valuable perspective. Perspective that, in fact, may illuminate a re-evalua- tion of other wines, i.e., our pre- ferences and/or dislikes, impor- tance to tradition, impact on other producers, etc. Said another way, to under- stand the joys of a great hambur- ger one must sometimes free oneself from an overly myopic appreciation of the hot dog. Attanasio Primitivo Late Harvest, Salento IGT Intense ruby color. Aromas and flavors of ripe red fruit, plum, raisin, hint of orange peel. Velvety texture, lush and volup- tuous in the mouth, an almost port-like quality mid-palate, notes of spice and cocoa powder on the finish. A great wine for table or meditation. Pair with meat dishes, grilled meats, stews, mature cheeses, dry des- serts. Gladiator Wine Imports, NY, NY. Primitivo is one of Italy's earliest ripening grapes WINE NEWS TRENDS PROFILES JOEL MACK THURSDAY, JUNE 29, 2017 In Italy, Primitivo is cultivated almost entirely in Puglia

• Cover