L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 7, 2017 www.italoamericano.org 18 L'Italo-Americano PAULA REYNOLDS Savor a section of the Via Francigena: Abbadia di Isola to Monteriggioni "a piedi" A ll roads lead to Rome as the old saying goes – all 1,243 miles of road when w e're talking about the Via Francigena, the ancient byway connecting Canterbury to Rome. While the serious-minded, con- temporary pellegrini (pilgrims) consider walking the full dis- tance a consummate goal, many of us pellegrini-of-the-heart find biting off a piece that big a bit unrealistic, even if the yearning is earnest. But like a rich dessert to be enjoyed in small portions, this ancient pathway is definitely doable for those with the desire — if not the durability. In the late 700s, Charlemagne swiped the reins of rule from the Lombards and tidied a few things up. This collection of roads, paths, and trails became collectively known as the Via Francigena mainly due to its connecting Rome to the land of the Franks. An important north- south route, the road became well-traveled and of great impor- tance for passage of merchants, armies, and eventually religious pilgrims . S egeric, the Archbishop of Canterbury, made use of the route in 990 to receive his pallium (ordination vestment) in Rome, and put to paper a quite incredible travel blog detailing his journey and accommodations along the way. It is better to see something once that to hear about it a thousand times. – unknown My first introduction to the Via Francigena was by way of a large sign posted outside the rough-hewn rock chiesa (church) in Monteriggioni. The route in this area of Tuscany was laid out, and a nice s ummary informed me of the history of the ancient road. Along with the map and information, a little medieval cartoon man sporting a robe and a knapsack oversaw my curious reading. Additionally, I noted a red/white/red flag-like symbol. Unbeknownst to me at the time, these icons were the modern "brand" of this pilgrim pathway – and s omething I w ould encounter many more times in the future. I was intrigued; I knew some- how, someway I would experi- ence this piece of Italian living his tory. I'm not much of a believer in omens— well, maybe a little— but within a year, I re- entered the g ates of Monteriggioni on foot…as a pel- legr ina covered in Via Francigena dust! Fast forward a year or so and oh, how lucky I was to be a part of a bloggers' tour sponsored by the Eur opean Council of Cultural Routes — my ticket to a first-hand (foot!) experience with other enthusiasts. Our journey that day would take us from the small hamlet of Abbadia Isola to Monteriggioni, a two-and-a- half-mile trek through the daz- zling Tuscan countryside. These days, Abbadia Isola is an attractive but sleepy little town offering a lot of quiet and a trattoria or two. At the advent of the 11 th century, its only claim to fame was as a submansio (halting place) for weary pil- grims due to its position on high ground amidst a great marsh. H ence, its name… Is land Abbey. By 1173, however, con- struction of a fancy new abbey- church was complete and the town became a strategic way- point for commerce and other travelers along the Via Francigena. Our brief pilgrimage began at the ancient church in Abbadia Isola. There awaiting us was a real-life version of the medieval cartoon figure I'd spied on the sign that day in Monteriggioni. Turns out this genteel soul was our guide. After a tour inside the hauntingly beautiful abbey, my exuberance had deepened to something a bit more profound. My feet rested here on the very stones where countless others had s tood th roughout the decades – weary souls who had come so far to reach this point, this s mall oas is of res t and reflection, to pause and say a prayer before retiring for sleep and sustenance. As I reflected on these things, a cloaked priest and monk stepped from the shadows to the pulpit as if a time machine had just delivered them. A brief salutation was delivered to our group as if we, too, were Rome- bound pilgrims receiving encouragement to carry on in good faith to complete this ardu- ous journey. Exiting the church, we set out to follow in the footsteps of the pellegrini, both literally and fig- uratively, on this section of the Via Francigena from Abbadia Is ola to M onteriggioni. However, it's worthy to note that the nice, gravel lined path we'd be trekking was at one time a mere mus h of a trail as it snaked through a medieval bog, and at times even required pas- s age by boat to reach Monteriggioni. And there was no " O ff!" in thos e bygone days… We embarked under brazenly blue skies as a cooling breeze nudged us along the straight path; dancing w heat and spring's last show of poppies flanked our path on either side, as the pastoral fields eventual- ly merged w ith s till-w ild forest. Our journey was part of a pre-structured experience which added a layer of historic magic that the average pilgrim would not have in this day and time, of course. As we wound our way out of flat lands into shadowed w oods and hills , a cas t of medieval figures crossed our path along the way – fellow traveling monks offering advice; middle-aged maids supplement- ing our strength with wine and bread ; a mins trel plying his stringed Vielle like a medieval Pied Piper; protective knights demanding our intentions for s eeking entrance to Monteriggioni. Around each bend was found a new delight, it s eemed, as w e w ent forth towards the city gates. The final push was an uphill trek to the west facing gate to the city. Awaiting our somewhat weary troupe stood a fully cos- tumed drum brigade and the sin- daco (mayor) of Monteriggioni himself. Our guide made our caus e and trus tw orthines s known, which then lead to a rather long-winded proclamation from the sindaco as we awaited entrance. There's definitely something to be said for entering an ancient Tuscan walled town escorted by the mayor and a spritely drum corps – I highly recommend it if you get the chance. However, even without these trappings, that moment of completion of even a small portion of the Via Francigena, of stepping within the fortified w alls of Monteriggioni, finding your way to an authentic trattoria modeled to serve traditional fare that would satisfy any hungry travel- er, and resting under the cool shade of an ancient tiled roof is an experience not soon forgot- ten. The Tuscan experience can be much more than sipping fine wines and dining on rich pasta dishes; there is living history to be found, the opportunity to lit- erally walk in the steps of the ancients. And in recent years, thanks to an army of passionate volunteers and the non-profit European Association of the Vie Francigene, the trails throughout Italy have been well marked, more hostel opportunities pro- vided, and user-friendly guide- books and maps available for planning your journey. Let the planning begin! Pursue some path, however narrow and crooked, in which you can walk with love and rev- erence. Henry David Thoreau The Tuscan experience can be much more than sipping fine wines and dining on rich pasta dishes; there is living history to be found, the opportu- nity to literally walk in the steps of the ancients ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES

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