L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 36 L'Italo-Americano Orcia DOC greatness: wine, food, landscape, culture O n Saint Valentine's Day 2000, as lovers expressed romantic affection for one another with gifts of flowers, confections and gree- ting cards, Italy's Orcia DOC quietly became an official Italian wine designation. Located in Tuscany, the Orcia landscape really does look like those Renaissance paintings with tall, conical cypress trees so representative of the Tuscan sce- nery. It's no surprise that Val d'Orcia, a UNESCO heritage site since 1984, is one of the world's most photographed agricultural landscapes. In this territory rich in artisan tradition, it strikes me that the preeminent work of art is the Orcia landscape itself, a conti- nuous and common thread con- necting work, people, agriculture, handicraft and, of course, wine. The principal grape variety of Orcia DOC is none other than Sangiovese, a native wine grape of Italy best known for its role in Chianti, Chianti Classico, Brunel- lo di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Morellino di Scansano. Among allowable varieties in Orcia wines is Foglia Tonda, an ancient Tuscan grape- vine which, after being neglected for a century, was re-discovered by Donatella Cinelli Colombini of Fattoria del Colle, and President of the Orcia Wine Consortium. Situated between the Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano denominations, that Orcia DOC is itself located in the same neighborhood as the afo- rementioned Italian wine powerhouses could be seen as a good thing: Sangiovese from the- reabouts has proven to make world class wines. On the other hand, considering its famous nei- ghbors, Orcia DOC could face a bit of a market challenge in terms of developing brand recognition and awareness. But that should not suggest competition between those San- giovese denominations. Indeed, the denominations have more to gain by recognizing how, in their traditions, history and culture, Sangiovese ties them together, rather than push them apart. Inasmuch as Orcia DOC may be new to you, it might be helpful here to mention municipalities which comprise the production territory: Buonconvento, Casti- glione d'Orcia, Pienza, Radicofa- ni, San Quirico d'Orcia and Tre- quanda, as well as parts of the lands of Abbadia San Salvatore, Chianciano Terme, Montalcino, San Casciano dei Bagni, Sarteano and Torrita di Siena. Orcia DOC produces four red wines: Orcia Rosso, made with minimum 60% Sangiovese; a Reserve, requiring 24 months aging, 12 of which must be in wood; Orcia Sangiovese, mini- mum 90% Sangiovese, and a cor- responding Reserve, subject to at least 30 months aging, 24 of which must be in wood. The denomination also allows for an Orcia Rosato, again 60% mini- mum Sangiovese, and an Orcia White and Vin Santo, each of which expect minimum 50% Tuscan Trebbiano. Recommended producers include Loghi, in Crete Senesi, San Giovanni d'Asso (where pro- prietor Valentino Berni and his dogs will be happy to take you hunting for white truffles, fol- lowed by lunch and a tasting of his wines); Sasso di Sole, in Tor- renieri, where property is uni- quely within the municipality of Montalcino and the Park of Val d'Orcia UNESCO site; Campo- tondo, where vineyards on the slopes of Mount Amiata are culti- vated in the ancient 'albarello' or bush style method; Poggio Gran- de, where the Zamperini family dedicate themselves to wine and olive oil; Podere Albiano, lying between valleys Val d'Orcia and Val di Chiana; Fattoria del Colle, in Trequanda, with a majestic view of Crete Senesi, where Foglia Tonda is cultivated; the winery of Marco Capitoni, where winemaking is also done in amphorae; Poggio al Vento, in the district of Castiglione d'Orcia, the organic winery of Roberto Mascelloni whose vineyards also include Foglia Tonda; Valdorcia Terresenesi where Gabriella Giannetti and Antonio Rovito work with native varieties like Pugnitello, Colorino, and Cilie- giolo, in addition to Sangiovese. Orcia local traditions include not only great wines, but also production of virgin olive oil, saf- fron, hunting for white truffles, the raising of Chianina cows and Cinta Senesi pigs for world class beef and pork, and sheep whose milk is used for savory pecorino cheese. Orcia DOC municipalities mentioned above contribute to and preserve the territory's rich cultural and artistic fabric. Local artisans use high quality raw materials to express territory tra- dition in pottery, textiles, painted majolica, leather craft, wrought iron, and embroidery. Hardcore wine folks whose only concern is "what's in the glass" might won- der if any of that really matters. It does. The inter-relationship between wine, food, culture and art is important because they are in truth interconnected in tradi- tion. To take care of one is to take care of the other. Perhaps more to the point, to understand and appreciate one means to ele- vate the pleasure of the other. Tasting Note Albioni Trìbolo Orcia DOC Albioni's cru, 100% Sangiovese. Cherry core, medicinal herb, forest floor, dusty refined tannins. A shining star for Orcia DOC and, for that matter, Tuscany, too. NOTE: Contact producer direc- tly. WINE NEWS TRENDS PROFILES JOEL MACK THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2017 Orcia local traditions include not only great wines, but also production of olive oil, saffron, hunting for white truffles and the raising of Chianina cows. Photo Credit, Elisa Bosco The Val d'Orcia, part of the UNESCO World Heritage, is home to some of Italy best DOC wines. Photo Credit, Elisa Bosco

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