L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 10 THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2017 L'Italo-Americano E very city has them, the so-called "hidden gems." The places rarely visited by tourists, and the ones often forgotten about by locals. Living in a historical city like Rome, you struggle to run out of hidden gem possibilities, yet it's not easy collecting them all. You can stare just that little bit harder at a painting, or ask a local where to eat. Or, in this case, you sometimes have to take the chance and ring the doorbell of a rather lonely looking door at the side of a busy Pharmacy. In Rome, the Antica Farmacia Santa Maria della Scala is hidden in plain sight. In everyone's favorite Roman neighborhood, Trastevere, thousands of people walk right past its entrance each day. It's hard to notice it, when you are so fixated on the sunset wash of the buildings, wrapped up in the beauty of the lazy vines creeping around corners, and ulti- mately trying to find that roman- tic looking bar to park yourself outside of, drink coffee or wine, and pass the afternoon people watching. The Pharmacy is one of those "blink and you'll miss it" kind of gems. There are certainly no sign- posts, and its entrance is tucked way. You only actually know you've arrived at the right place by squinting your eyes to read the scribbled name on the buzzer. One buzz and a friar, who will be our tour guide for the next hour, opens up the door. He begins by explaining that the Farmacia was set up in the 16th century by Carmelite friars. The friars, who lived in the adja- cent convent, would use plants and spices they had grown in their nursery to make natural medicines to cure common ail- ments. These medicines served the Papal court and even Royalty, before being made available to the general public in the 17th century. Today, the pharmacy is no longer in operation, but it is in perfect condition and for five Euros per person, it is well worth the visit. Closing in 1954, making way for a more modern pharmacy next door, it's as if the friars just stood up, walked out, and closed the doors behind them. The phar- macy remains frozen in time. Walking inside is almost like stepping back a few hundred years. The apothecary bottles with handwritten labels remain on display in the ornate glass cabinets. The walls and ceiling are painted with delicate fres- coes. As you walk through the rooms, you're almost unsure whether the haziness around is because this may all be a dream, or it's just the dust settling from the gust of wind you brought in when opening the door. The friar points out the most common medicines sold in the pharmacy. One in particular, he stresses, is very important to the friars and helped put the pharmacy on the map. It's called Acqua della Scala. The "secret ingredient" in this water, he claims, gives it curative powers to numb general pains, reduce inflammations, cure allergies and relieve respira- tory problems. Wondering what this secret ingredient could be, we wander into the office of the pharmacy. Cupboards stacked with spice drawers line the wall. Opening each door, you find portraits painted on the back of people who once visited the pharmacy. Princes, Popes and even the sec- ond king of Italy, King Umberto. In the spice drawers, you find ingredients that have been lying there since the day the Pharmacy closed in the 50s. Liquorice, elderflower, and what is described as "erb. fumar"- which the friar translates to the English speakers in the group as "mari- juana." Could this have been the secret ingredient of the curative waters? No matter how hard you try, the friar will not tell. As well as the shop floor and office, the friar also takes you to visit the laboratory. Here, you find an old pill press and other man-powered machines used to crunch, extract and combine ingredients. The laboratory may no longer be in use, but a familiar smell sneaks up on you, almost like the smells of Vick's vapor rub or some kind of cold and flu medicine. It's almost comforting, in a way. The friar continues talking about the methods used to make LORNA DAVISDSON The 16th century pharmacy of the Pope medicines and what has changed in recent years. He then returns towards his desk, opens a drawer and hands you what looks like a menu. They may not make med- ications here anymore, but you can still buy some of the old favorites at the end of the tour. Among the natural remedies on sale, you'll find "Grains of Health," a mild laxative suitable for children; "The Hermit's Goodnight" to relieve nervous- ness before bed; "The Missionary Tonic," taken to improve body strength; and "Wisdom Pearls" to prevent mental fatigue. Funnily enough, you also find Grappa, Limoncello and amaro on the list. An hour of your time in a city with so much to see may sound like a lot. But for those who have visited Rome once, twice or more, it is places like this phar- macy that let you appreciate the city on another level and dig beneath the surface of the main attractions. You find the Farmacia Santa Maria della Scala in Piazza della Scala 23, next to Santa Maria della Scala church. You must make an appointment to visit with the local friar, who offers tours in a variety of languages. Appointments should be made at least 7 days prior and via phone by calling +39.06.8414209. The Antica Farmacia Santa Maria della Scala is one of Rome's little hidden treasures ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES The ancient apothecary still sells old fashioned concoctions to its visitors

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