L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 30, 2017 www.italoamericano.org 14 L'Italo-Americano LA VITA ITALIANA TRADITIONS HISTORY CULTURE PAULA REYNOLDS A long the far north- western edge of Sicily between Tra- pani and Marsala, the land flattens and flirts with the ancient sea. Miles of lagoons, inlets, and briny pools support life as they have for mil- lennia. And there is salt; beauti- ful, coveted, life-sustaining sea salt from the famed salt pans of Trapani. Although these flats have offered up salt since the sea receded from the volcanic upris- ing that created Sicily, the earliest cultivated harvesting is believed to date back almost 2,700 years at the hands of the Phoenicians. They recognized a good thing: cultivation of these salt flats has been mostly continuous ever since. The natural gifts of warm African trade winds, endless days of summer sun, and the high salinity of the coastal waters cre- ate a perfect trifecta for copious production of this prized Mediter- ranean salt. The old-world method used here until about 1980 is notable, and fortunately recognized as such, which has led to rigorous protection of the land and methods. It's quite easy to get up close and personal with the origins and production of this Sicilian salt, and well worth the effort. The short drive from Trapani along the Via del Sale (Salt Road) seems to lead into a not-so-glam- ourous industrial zone dotted with small hills of salt along the roadside, their appearance almost forlorn. Certainly not the stun- ning landscape a tourist might anticipate from their travel guide. But it does get better – much bet- ter. Visitors can find easy access to the salt flats at the Museo del Sale (Museum of Salt). This small but interesting museum is housed in a quaint 300-year-old salt farmer's house , topped with one of the famous windmills of Trapani. Lay a few euro down and you're off – free to wander and explore this surreal landscape of acqua e sale. The salt pans play out in every direction. They can vary wildly in appearance depending on the sea- son and phase of production or harvest. And there are windmills! Dotting the watery landscape, these Quixote-invoking structures were added in medieval times. Only a handful of survivors remain, rising up to remind of the day when they pumped sea water in and out and powered the grind- ing of salt rocks. Fortunately, efforts have been made to restore and bring back to working order at least two of these beautiful machines. To gaze upon one as it stoically holds watch over the shimmering flats is a moving experience. And of course, the photo-ops are incredible! Wandering the production area reveals a fascinating story of salt collection. Shallow pools of salt water are pumped in from the sea and held captive in the vasche salanti (salting tanks) beginning in April. The levels are carefully tended by the dedicated labor of men who often come from multi- generational salt contadini (farm- ers). Operations are overseen by a curatolo, the almost mystic fig- ure who goes by knowledge, gut, and intuition for deciding when and how to add and subtract sea water, as well as harvest the salt. By outward appearances, the pro- duction process may seem sim- plistic; however, it's a structured scientific choreography depen- dent on many players, and much too lengthy to go into here! Concrete walkways line each tank, creating an angular array of pedestrian paths. Piles of moist, chunky salt rise like gigantic white ant hills situated alongside some of the tanks, creating tow- ering dikes with nothing to pro- tect. The briny surfaces vary in color, too, from grayish to white to pink depending on the phase of evaporation and microorganisms present. This science at work combines to create a striking artistic palette. Beginning in the 1980's, the back-breaking labor required to tend to and harvest Trapani's sea salt began to give way to mecha- nization. However, a lingering pride in the product, and probably in local work ethic, didn't allow it to go too far. Excavators have replaced a number of held-driven shovels, while conveyor belts move the gathered salt rather than a heavy basket hoisted on a labor- er's shoulder. However, hands-on work remains an integral part of the process. Traditions and steady work win out often here. Fortunately, the historic signif- icance and value of the age-old production methods have been recognized and preserved through a 1995 act that created The Nature Reserve Saline di Trapani and Paceco. Thanks to this enact- ment, approximately 2,400 acres of wetlands, including the salt flats, are off-limits to destruction or development.  The reserve also plays host to an array of migrato- ry birds riding those very impor- tant desert winds to and from Africa, as well as a number of indigenous plants. Time spent in the Museo del Sale offers a great education on the traditional methods in use since Phoenicians ran the show, as well as the virtues of this min- eral rich, natural salt. A trap door through the roof offers a wonder- ful chance to check out the wind- mill in detail, as well as take in the amazing view over the flats. A pleasant little trattoria is adja- cent to the museum: what a fine way to relax after a tour and sip some local Marsala as the sun sets over the salt pools! Along with its significant his- toric and practical value, salt pro- duced here is highly valued in the culinary world. The salt is sold moist which indicates that only a natural drying process has occurred. Many trace elements and minerals are retained unlike with a processed product. It also ensures a fantastic flavor that is highly prized in many kitchens around the world, especially for fish dishes, which is certainly fit- ting considering its origins. This rugged Sicilian landscape of handsome windmills watching over salty ponds and dunes offers a rare opportunity to observe a perfect synchronization of nature and man working respectfully in tandem. It's an adventure well worth its salt! The old salt of Sicily: Discovering Trapani's salt flats The old salt production methods of the Trapani area are protected through the Nature Reserve Saline di Trapani e Paceco Saline play out in every direction

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