L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 30, 2017 www.italoamericano.org 18 L'Italo-Americano LORNA DAVIDSON L a vendemmia has come to an end for another year in Italy. From Franciacorta to the most southern tip of Puglia, Italian families and wine producers have temporarily closed the curtain on the culture, labor and feste involved in the country's annual grape harvest.   It has been a disappointing year for s ome, w ith reports showing the country has suffered a staggering 25% cut in annual wine production compared to 2016. Yet, Italian wine continues to grace our dinner tables, bars and trattorie, as cons umers acros s the w orld attempt to quench their thirst for the Italian nectar. It's no secret that Tuscany, Piedmont and Veneto top the charts as leading winemakers in Italy. In fact, few look further than the recognizable regions printed on the back of a bottle and the DOCG label for quality. But with all 20 regions in Italy producing different wines and around 400 indigenous grapes grown across the country, why do we follow the crowd when we can stray down the wine trail to experience something a little more unknown? One region in particular that is not famous for its wine pro- duction is Lazio. Perhaps that's due to the abundance of histori- cal attractions and the fact it's home to the Italian capital. Or, perhaps it's because Lazio's vineyards don't engulf the majority of the region. Regard- les s , w hen vis iting Rome or Lazio, it's worth noting that you don't have to travel as far as the Tuscan hills to admire expanding vineyards, to taste great wine and, if you're lucky, pick a bunch of grapes or two. Frascati, a small town nestled into the rim of a volcano and just a 25 minute train ride from Rome, is a fruity gem that has been reinventing itself in recent years. To the locals, Frascati wine is a staple, served up in Fraschette throughout the town and used to wash down bites of salty porchetta. To the neighbor- ing Romans, it's the wine they expect to be served by the carafe when out for a traditional meal and is well known as the cheap alternative white wine. But we shouldn't let these low prices be an indicator of Frascati's quality. Afterall, would Italians really drink bad wine by the litre? Frascati wine isn't always sold by the gallon to wooden- tabled trattorie or poured into recycled plastic bottles for the locals to take home. Many vine- yards in Frascati are recognized as valuable contributors to Italy's top quality wine production. The locals are proud of their "golden wine" and many are very careful to play by the rules in order to earn themselves the prestigious DOCG certification. Dominque Lettiere is a proud member of a cooperative that has traced its history of wine-making all the way back to the 1500s. Her team were also one of the first to be awarded the DOCG recognition in 2010. This means they do not irrigate and their yield is limited. Porchetta is a staple of tradition in and around Frascati Talking to Dominique, it's obvious that it's not just the quality of her wine that she's proud of. After living in Rome for 7 years , the Californian native decided to take the leap and move out of the big city in s earch for w hat s he calls "authentic Italy." After settling in Frascati, she began her mis- sion to better the reputation of the town, starting with its wine. After living there for six years, she and her cooperative now offer wine tours from Rome that introduce travelers and local Romans to the quality golden wine made in Lazio, focusing on Frascati. It's all a very charming affair, visiting a vineyard and enjoying a walking tour of the beautiful hillside town. But it's more than the wine, the picturesque build- ings, the delicious porchetta and the panoramic views over the Eternal City that make Frascati a mus t vis it des tination. F or D ominique, w hat really s ets Frascati apart from the rest is the town's culture and, most impor- tantly, the people. " Few people in Fr as cati speak English and since the town has yet to be discovered by many tourists, locals are excited to m eet you and ar e cur ious to know wher e you com e fr om . [Frascati is] only 25 minutes from Rome, but it has an entirely different feel. People are friend- ly, the food has amazing quality and the wine is delicious!" When arriving in the town, you can see where Dominque is coming from with her descrip- tion of "authentic Italy." Nonni sit on the benches that line the viewpoint above the train station, people greet each other at almost every corner, kids play football in the piazza outs ide of the church and shops close for a three hour break in the middle of their day to leave time for family lunch and a nap. Now, this is Italy. The locals also know how to put on a show. After 15 years of absence, Carnevale festivities returned to the town in 2015. In the past 2 years even Romans have begun to migrate out of the city to witness the town's parade and to celebrate in style. For being a small place and for not celebrating Carnival w ith a parade for so many years, it's s urpris ing how much effort everyone puts into their cos- tumes and the sheer abundance of events that take place through- out the day. They even create a giant puppet to honor the town's traditional, and s omew hat humorous, cookie, nicknamed la Pupazza Frascatana. La Pupazza Frascatana, or Miss Frascati to some, can be found in bakeries all around the town. The cookie icon is not just a figure for Carnevale, but part of the town's culture and has real meaning for the people of Fras- cati. She is made using honey, flour and water, and is baked in the shape of a woman, but with one noticeable trait. She has three breasts. You may look twice at her when you pass by a bakers, but the locals are quick to tell you that she is almost like a lucky charm, or goddess, for the town. They explain that the reason she has been gifted with three breasts is because two of them are to provide milk for her children and one is for wine. It's an interest- ing concept, however if you were doubting the town's pride for their wine, then la Pupazza Fras- catana will soon help you make up your mind. Spending a day in the inviting and beautiful town of Frascati, especially over Carnevale, is a magical, and somewhat emotion- al, experience. It is living proof that the quaint and romantic side of Italy that we all grew up hear- ing about is still very much in existence. The short distance from Rome, the good tasting wine, the people, and their tradi- tions really do make Frascati and Roman wine country the perfect day-trip escape from Rome. ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES Rome's Wine Country Eating porchetta, the three-breasted lady, visiting vineyards and one of the best Carnivals this side of Venice Carnevale is a big thing in Frascati

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