L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 44 L'Italo-Americano Gaglioppo: principal red variety in Cirò DOC I like that the phrase "fine wine" is disappearing, sur- rendering in the popular wine consciousness to the more democratic, less snob- bish and preferable notion of "wine." That small shift of emphasis signals good things. Among them, greater inclusivity between wine drinkers, an expanded con- versation around wine apprecia- tion, improved commercial opportunity for a larger number of wine producers, and an enhan- ced awareness of lesser known wine grape varieties. To sweeten the deal, improve- ments in research and wine- making are helping bring even closer together any remaining gap between the two points of refe- rence by upping the general qua- lity bar. As fine wine's sack of preten- tious air continues to deflate, one of the deserving native Italian wine grapes likely to benefit from the exhalation is Gaglioppo. Gaglioppo has some rather distinguished origins: some histo- rians maintain that, were you to have in ancient times won your Olympic Games event, you would have been rewarded with gallons of Gaglioppo to refresh your body and mind. I am guessing, however, that we can introduce you to Gagliop- po with considerably less exer- tion. In Italy, Gaglioppo grows pri- marily in Calabria. As a wine region Calabria, despite a good running start -renowned ancient wine tradition and suitable lands for quality viticulture - has, to be kind, been somewhat unhurried to establish a strong regional wine identity. What little wine world attention Calabria has garnered has been defined in large part by Gaglioppo and the wonderful expression it finds in Calabria's Cirò DOC production zone, where it is the principal red grape variety. Despite the robust Olympian imagery, in terms of color, Gaglioppo pales when compared to other native Italian varieties that produce more deeply-colored wines (Nero d'Avola - official name Calabrese -and Montepul- ciano, come to mind). Gaglioppo has a decidedly low amount of anthocyanins,or color-producing pigments. These are of the unsta- ble sort, making proper handling of the wines important, lest their color veer toward a reddish oran- ge hue. That Gaglioppo wines don't have a deeper coloration, stable over time, has vexed many "fine wine" folks. The same folks seem to have forgiven Italy's "greatest wine grape,"Nebbiolo, for the same shortcoming, which amuses me to no end. Gaglioppo makes floral red wines perfumed with notes of citrus, spice and underbrush. In the mouth, the wines are soft, even plush at times, savory, with wild berry flavor, good acidity, and show a nice balance of ripe and tart. Gaglioppo's tannins are remarkable more for their coarse grip than for actual abundance, something to take into considera- tion when the variety is blended with a highly tannic partner (read: Cabernet Sauvignon). All in all, Gaglioppo makes for char- ming wines that demonstrate a good sense of place. DNA studies have shown Gaglioppo to have a parent-child relationship with Sangiovese. Its scent of underbrush does remind one of that earthy "forest floor" character of Sangiovese, nearly as much as its floral smells conjure recollections of Nebbiolo and the latter's haunting faded- rose perfume. Gaglioppo, too, can revive memories of the blis- sful mid-weight equilibrium com- municated in a mouthful of Frap- pato. Cirò DOC wines require a minimum of 80% Gaglioppo, with a maximum 20% of other allowable varieties. Rules allow for Rosso, Superiore, Riserva, and Superiore Riserva bottlings. Classico designations issue from the Cirò and Cirò Marina areas. As Gaglioppo is inclined to oxidation when not made well, you may wish to choose produ- cers carefully. For Cirò DOC, recommended producers include Vigna de Franco 'A Vita (100% Gaglioppo Cirò DOC Rosso Clas- sico Superiore is outstanding), Caparra & Siciliani, Librandi. In addition to Cirò DOC, you might look to discover more of Gagliop- po in the wines of Calabria IGT, or Lamezia DOC and Savuto DOC (though not in as high a per- centage as you may find in Cirò DOC or Calabria IGT), combined with other allowable varieties that bring color and tannin to the blend. Try iGreco for Calabria IGT; for Lamezia DOC, producer Statti; producer Odoardi for Savuto DOC. Gaglioppo is excellent when paired with spicy red sauced pasta, chicken or eggplant parmi- giana, roasted meats, and cheeses, especially aged sheep's milk cheeses, and spicy international foods. I encourage you toward adventure: try Gaglioppo slightly cooled with spicy tuna maki; enjoy it with Indian channa masala or dal makhani. Too far from your comfort zone? No worries. To serve Gaglioppo with a dish of penne "arrabbiata" or your favorite eggplant parm is sure to leave you smiling. Tasting Note Vigna de Franco 'A Vita Cirò DOC Rosso Classico Superiore Ripe berry fruit, crushed flowers, dusty tannins and a plea- santly bitter orange peel finish. Savory, with frisky acidity, this is a nicely balanced, different, inte- resting wine that communicates rustic elegance and refinement. WINE NEWS TRENDS PROFILES JOEL MACK THURSDAY, DECEMBER 14, 2017 Gaglioppo is excellent when paired with, among other things, roasted meats and cheeses Gaglioppo has a long history and it is believed to be a wine favored by the ancients Greeks.

• Cover