L'Italo-Americano

L'Italo-Americano THURSDAY, DECEMBER 14, 2017 www.italoamericano.org 8 PAULA REYNOLDS S tring some lights, hang a wreath, deco- rate the tree, and deck the halls with every form of green and red imaginable – Christmas is nigh! But have you polished up your Urn of Fate - fattened your Fasson ox – reserved your seat for the Befana boat race? These Christmas traditions, and other unexpected sorts, help make the Yuletide season most unique in Italy! Unlike the American observa- tion that focuses solely on December 25 th , the Christmas season begins full blown – liter- ally – on December 8 th in Italy. The boom of cannon fire from Castel Sant'Angelo in Rome announces L'Immacolata Con- cezione (Celebration of the Immaculate Conception) and the season begins, continuing through the Epiphany on January 6 th . Regata delle Befane – The race of the Befana witches Befana! That ol' beloved witch who was late for a date with the 3 Wise Men and thus, is forever searching for the Christ Child on Epiphany. And of course, her search includes leav- ing gifts for every child so as not to miss the Newborn King. On January 6th, in Venice, five "befane" over age 55 don suitable witch attire, hop in an unsteady-at-best mascareta (small single oar boat), and row- row-row their boats from Palaz- zo Bilbo to the Rialto Bridge. A gigantic stocking hanging from the bridge is the official finish line, appropriately so. Fiera del Bue Grasso – the Fair of the Fat Ox Christmas in the United States is often associated with a fat man in a red suit, but Babbo Natale must step aside for the annual festivals celebrating the fat oxen of the northwestern region of Piedmont. During December weekends prior to Christmas, communities throughout the region host seri- ous competitions among the local hefty oxen – and their owners – with the winning ox granted the wearing of the gual- drappa, a festive ornamental drape. La N'docciata - Agnone's River of Fire In the southern Italian region of Molise lies the quiet town of Agnone. Come December 24 th ,however, the community literal- ly turns up the heat on the Christ- mas season. It's time for La N'docciata, the festive parade of large, fan-shaped torches. Hav- ing anywhere from 2 to 10 or more spokes and standing 6 to 8 feet tall, the fiery torches appear in legion as if flaming garden trellis' are overtaking the town. What remains of the n'docce (torches) is then piled in the cen- tral piazza for the Bonfire of Brotherhood. With roots of ancient origin, today's event symbolizes the burning of any- thing negative, while a large Nativity overlooking the scene reminds of hope and renewal in the coming year. Le Lettere di Auguri Oh, commercialized world… this is a tradition you will not like! Rather than penning a lengthy list of material goods wanted because they've been nice, children in Italy write a let- tera di auguri to their parents. This letter of thanks and appreci- ation is presented to the parents on Christmas Eve, or placed cer- emoniously under the dinner plate on Christmas Day. Ballo della Pupa – the exploding puppet woman of Abruzzo And no, it's not from overeat- ing on Christmas Day, but instead an ancient rite celebrated on December 26 th in honor of The Feast Day of St. Barbara. The grand finale to this feast day is the Ballo della Pupa – the dance of the puppet. A large, brightly colored papier-mâché "woman" is affixed to metal framework laden with fireworks, while a man stands inside, pro- viding her with legs and move- ment. As the puppet merrily dances about to folk tunes, the long-anticipated pyrotechnic show begins. Sparks and flames and colors shoot in every direc- tion as the now-exploding puppet woman dances feverishly for the crowd. Although this display has ancient pagan roots and has become Christianized over the decades, the belief that a pros- perous year will ensue after a successful blaze of fireworks is still held to this day. Il Ceppo – Christmas trees Italian style That beautiful tinsel-laden tree that resides in many Ameri- can and Italian homes during the Christmas season has a Tuscan cousin. Constructed of wood in the shape of pyramid, this shelf- like structure, the ceppo, remains a beloved ancient tradition in Tuscan homes. Believed to be an extension of the Yule log, also known as a ceppo, this vertical version traditionally consists of 3 specific shelves or stations. The lower shelf holds the presepio (Nativity scene), the gift from God; the second shelf is reserved for gifts of the earth such as nuts and fruits; the top shelf is filled with small presents, the gifts of men. Often dressed with candles, tinsel and other shimmering decor, the twinkling ceppo is also known as the Tree of Light. The Urn of Fate With the family gathered on la Vigilia (Christmas Eve), the day of il cenone (light eating in preparation for the holiday) draws to a close. No meat is eaten on this day, but the tradi- tional evening feast of fish and vegetables leaves no one hungry. While a ceppo (Yule log) crack- les in the fire, the family waits expectantly to draw a gift from an ornate bowl known as the Urn of Fate. Although an empty box or two may lurk and result in a sad face of fate, each family member is eventually rewarded with a small gift drawn from the bowl before departing for Christ- mas Eve mass. Zampognari – the bagpiper players of Italy Wait. Bagpipes? In Italy? Why yes! A delightful tradition with age-old roots, the zampog- nari (bagpipe players) dress in traditional shepherds' garb of heavy wool capes, woolen vests, and strappy leather ties over woolen knickers and descend from the mountains (symbolical- ly) as shepherds of days past. Heralding the season and the birth of the Christ Child, the pipes enchant with time-honored songs, as they announce the arrival of the shepherds, now home for the holidays. Legend states that the original shepherds who visited Jesus played their pipes to lull the babe; thus, mod- ern zampognari stop for a moment's quiet reflection when passing a public Nativity scene. These zampognari are said to have originated in the hills and mountains of northern Italy, as well as around Rome. As with their Scottish brethren, the shep- herds lived remote lives and entertained themselves with hand-wrought wooden pipes. The tradition of bagpipe Christ- mas music is alive and well in smaller locales in the north, while in Rome and regions fur- ther south it flourishes in many towns' seasonal celebrations. Christmas in Italy: unique traditions and destinations LA VITA ITALIANA TRADITIONS HISTORY CULTURE Zampognari, fat ox fairs and N'docciata: lesser known, sometime curious, Italian Christmas traditions

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