L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, JANUARY 25, 2018 www.italoamericano.org 26 L'Italo-Americano D id you know the United Nations con- siders pizza Napole- tana a cultural her- itage? In December 2017, the Art of the Neapolitan Pizzaiuolo, lovingly transmitted from generation to generation, has been selected by the United N atio ns , U N ES CO (U nited Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization), to join the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. UNESCO writes, "The culi- nary know-how associated with pizza making – which includes gestures, songs, visual forms of expression, local linguistic utter- ances, the ability to handle pizza dough properly and to transform pizza making into a performance to share – is without a doubt a cultural patrimony. " Piz z aiuoli (people w ho makes pizzas in a pizzeria) and their guests, all participate in a social ritual steeped in convivial- ity, where counter and stone oven work as a stage. Originat- ing in some of the poorer areas of Naples, this culinary tradition remains s till today deeply entrenched in the daily life of its community. To many young apprentices, becoming a pizza- iuolo is als o a w ay to avoid social marginalization." Sergio Miccù, president of the As s ociaz ione dei Piz z aiuoli Napoletani, highlights the pro- found social role of pizza mak- ing in his city of Naples: "The art of pizzaiuoli did carry out a function of social redemption for many. It is strictly connected not only with Neapolitan identity but, truly, with that of the whole country." By their action, UNESCO not only honored the cultural value of the pizza making art, but it als o acknow ledged the art's social connotations. In some cases, becoming a pizzaiuolo has been a way out of poverty, a time-honored and respected way to learn a beloved craft. Schools and academies teach the arte dei pizzaiuoli (the art of the pizza maker) but it should be kept in mind that knowledge and skills are primarily taught in a bottega, a place where appren- tices can watch masters create their delicious creations. The San Francisco Bay Area has its own 12-time world cham- pion pizzaiuolo, Tony Gemignani, and California is home to his many restaurants. L'Italo-Americano checked in with Gemignani and asked him to s hare his thoughts on CATHERINE ACCARDI It's Not Just Pizza Anymore! mes s ages , Tony G emignani includes the phrase, "Respect the Craft." The San Francisco Bay Area agrees! Look for more information about upcoming events celebrating Pizza Napole- tana in a future issue of L'Italo- Americano. Pizzaiuolo Tony at work. Photographs courtesy of Sara Remington SAN FRANCISCO ITALIAN COMMUNITY UNESCO's proclamation. "It was a monumental day for our industry and the Neapolitan pizzaiuolo. It is important for tradition to be recognized and for UNESCO to recognize the Verace Pizza Napoletana, the authentic way of making true Neapolitan pizza. Yes, a very proud day for me and fellow N eapolitan pizza makers . It raised awareness about Neapoli- tan pizzas culture and heritage." Did you have the opportu- n ity to p articip ate in th is process and if so, in what way? "I was asked to sign the peti- tion and support this a couple years ago by Salvatore Cuomo." I talian officials cite th e importance as cultural but also for economic implications saying that pizza is a $14 bil- lion industry in Italy and a $73 b illion in d u s try in th e U S . What are your thoughts about th e econ omic imp act as it applies to the US? "Pizza has always been one of the most popular foods in A merica. What's important is the aware- ness this brings to Neapolitan pizza and how people, cus - tomers, patrons, can understand the tradition that goes behind our pizza. It's important to edu- cate U.S. eaters and now, with the recognition of UNESCO, the pizza industry will get bigger and brighter." UNESCO highlights pizza making as an art, a profession, with traditional music, songs, specific skills and traditions. Please share your thoughts on p izza mak in g as an art . "Neapolitan pizza is such an important trade. It's a craft and it's not easy. There are a lot of hours devoted to this, training, dedication, practice, love, pas- sion, drive. It's a religion. It's our life. Our hands are every- thing. I have the words 'Respect the Craft' tattooed on my hands and 'Pizza for Life' tattooed on my ches t. I've been making pizza for almost 30 years and I am still learning. We live, eat and sleep pizza." Seems UNESCO's recogni- tion could be used to promote the pizza industry and Italian culture. "The recognition is most important to me and carry- ing on the tradition through my pizza and hopefully to my son Giovanni as he gets older." In acknow ledgment of U N ES CO 's recognition of Neapolitan pizza, San Francis- co's Italian Cultural Institute (IIC) will celebrate the Week of Neapolitan Pizza in April. The IIC has invited the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, AVPN (True Neapolitan Pizza Associa- tion) to honor this important achievement. The True Neapolitan Pizza Association is a non-profit orga- nization, founded in June 1984 in Naples. Its mission is to pro- mote and protect in Italy and worldwide the true Neapolitan pizza. The Association is also involved in the promotion and protection of the affiliated pizze- rias and products of true Neapolitan pizza and in the pro- fessionalization of pizza makers. At the bottom of his email Tony in the pizza kitchen. Photographs courtesy of Tony Gemignani

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