L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, JANUARY 25, 2018 www.italoamericano.org 14 L'Italo-Americano PAULA REYNOLDS S he lies just south of Siena, this stark yet s oft and w izened land. Her sensuously rolling landscape is ever-changing — breathtakingly alluring when bathed in the play of shadows and sunlight, moody and dark when clouds obscure the sky. Iconic Tuscany lives here amidst the marching regi- ments of solitary cypresses that traverse the curves of the land, guiding one to a farmhouse or to nowhere but the horizon. Snowy palettes of sheep break the green on undulating hillsides, their col- lective shapes slowly shifting as if mirroring the fluffy clouds above them. Stoic and sturdy farmhous es appear now and then, their rocky grit and longevity attesting to the spirit of those past and present who tend this land. All of this and more make for a unique part of Tus- cany – the Crete Senesi. Once the bed of an ancient Pliocene sea, the remaining sedi- ment now compromis es the heavy clay (crete) soil of the Crete Senesi. Time immemorial and the forces of erosion com- bined to sculpt the landscape we s ee today. H ars h crags and knolls of chalky-white clay out- croppings segue into soil the color and texture of elephant skin, their appearance almost other-worldly. This harshness intertwines with cultivated land- scape that seems to softly roll and flow, its serpentine green lines rising and falling as if liq- uid. This is the Crete and its never-ceasing panorama of beau- ty. The land here is largely culti- vated despite the struggles of taming the distinctive soil. Sum- mer rains saturate the clay caus- ing it to expand, while the dry winters result in cracking, shift- ing, and resultant movement. Convincing the roots of an olive tree or grapevine to accept these conditions is challenging at best. These expected delights of Tus- cany, however, are found in the region, but fewer in number that other areas such as Chianti. In fact, one of the most famous of Italian wines – Brunello di Mon- telcino – is proudly grown and produced in the heart of the Crete Senesi. Although there is no season when this land is not spectacular, perhaps s pring and s ummer stand out. Wheat, the most abun- dant crop of the Crete Senesi and the bas e of much of central Italy's pasta supply, announces itself as winter days warm into spring. Brilliant green overtakes the rested gray earth as the land bursts into life. Stunning vistas appear: fiery red poppies scat- tered like rubies mingle with the early wheat, then soon give way to flowing currents of yellow mustard flower. As summer pro- gresses and the wheat ripens, the famed girasole (sunflowers) of Tuscany burst forth, calling all attention to themselves as they follow the sun from east to west. Vying for attention, the mature wheat seems to dance to the tunes of the summer wind, fluid and alive. The Crete Senesi also hosts an admirable s election of medieval hamlets and s mall towns, many of Etruscan origin. The town of Asciano stands as the hub of the main comune, located about 12 miles south of Siena. Surrounded by the ebb and flow of green, this quiet town is home to several notable works of art, a fine collection of Etruscan items, and the historic Sant'Agata church dating to the 11 th century. Asciano is also the site of the bloodiest medieval battle in Italy's history, the Bat- tle of Montaperti. Fought by arch rivals Siena and Florence in September of 1260, over 30,000 souls lost their lives during the course of the one day siege. The victory went to Siena and as a result, fortified walls were built. The remnants standing today almost seem to speak to those who take notice: do not forget that fateful day. A few miles further south, the impres s ive A bbey of M onte Oliveto Maggiore resides atop a partially exposed gray clay out- cropping. A w inding path through peaceful pine forests leads to a drawbridge still stand- ing as a sentry to this monastery. Founded in 1313 by Tolomei of Siena, Monte Oliveto is the heart of the Benedictine order of Oliveto monks, and functions as such to this day. Visitors are welcome (quiet, please) to view the impressive frescoes by Luca Signorelli and the ornate reno- vated Baroque church. And if something is ailing you, a stop at the gift shop offers up a bounty of herbal remedies produced by the monks in residence. Continuing south, a pause at the charming walled town of Buonconvento is definitely worth the time. Located where the Ombrone and Arbia rivers converge, the sleepy village has been an important waypoint for some 1000 years. With a small offering of interesting museums and churches and a good few restaurants, a peaceful half day is easily spent here. There are many others worth the admiration of a visitor, such as San Giovanni d'Asso, famous for truffles and a regal castle; Montalcino, host of Brunello w ine and impres s ively s teep streets that lead to stellar views; Rapolano Terme where a dip in an ancient Roman thermal bath can be had; and Monteroni d'Ar- bia, a soft-spoken hamlet on the Via Francigena that was once the agricultural hub of the region. But the beseeching mystery, the ethereal beauty, the views that defy des cription res ide beyond the walls of any given village or town. Under a sky that seems to merge with eternity, the landscape of the Crete beckons to a place deep within. There is a quiet here, an ageless knowledge that seems to ride on the wind, comforting yet uns ettling at once. Time seems in suspension, though never ceases to almost defiantly declare its passing. Each shift of cloud and shadow bring a moment by moment change to the eternal landscape; each hour of the day repaints a static canvas; each season seeks to cloak the clay with its gar- ments of choice. Yet, there's quiet reassurance in the continu- ity of land and sky and creature. And the hand of man lovingly tends to each, generation passing to generation the duty to tend this rugged beauty known as the Crete Senesi. Land of many faces: the Crete Senesi Once the bed of an ancient Pliocene sea, the remaining sediment now compromises the heavy clay (crete) soil of the Crete Senesi The Crete Senesi hosts an admirable selection of medieval hamlets and small towns, many of Etruscan origin ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES

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