L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, MARCH 8, 2018 www.italoamericano.org 12 L'Italo-Americano LA VITA ITALIANA TRADITIONS HISTORY CULTURE PAULA REYNOLDS J ewish populations have called Italy home since Judas Maccabee sent a contingent to Rome in 161 B.C. Although their history is wrought with strife, Jewish communities have established deeply planted roots throughout Italy. Their distinct culture has interwoven with the beautiful fabric of Italian life, leaving an indelible mark. For instance, as commemorated on the Arch of Titus in Rome, 10,000 Jewish slaves helped construct the Coliseum. And we can't forget dishes that claim Hebraic origins such as carciofi alla giudia (deep fried arti- chokes) or spinaci con pinoli e passerine (spinach with pine nuts and raisins) among a host of others so beloved in Italy. In fact, vegetables such as these and the revered eggplant credit their introduction to central and northern Italy to Jews who set- tled in these areas. However, if a visit to Italy finds you in one of the well- known Jewish Ghettos in Rome or Venice — or even a lesser known one such as in quaint Pit- igliano – don't get your hopes up for experiencing a savory corned beef on rye or a steaming bowl of matzo ball soup to go along with your mid-day macchiato in this historic setting. You'd be met with a shrug of the shoulders or even a puzzled "Cos'è quel- lo?" Although the current Jewish population in Italy numbers around 30,000, these now-inte- grated communities retain a strong cultural and religious presence, which certainly includes celebration of tradition- al holidays. While Christian communities in Italy and elsewhere prepare for Easter, Jewish communities make ready for one of the most important observations of the year: Passover. Pesach (in Hebrew) commemorates the ancient exodus of the Jews from oppression in Egypt as told in the biblical book of Exodus. The celebration of this event is one of the most important Jewish holi- days, and its observation is filled with traditions passed from one generation to the next. Calculated to occur on the full moon in the Hebrew month of Nisan (either March or April), the first night of Passover is cel- ebrated with, what else – food and family! With a couple of thousand years of practice on Italian soil, the symbol-laden Passover meal (Seder) in Italy has evolved to one with distinc- tive Italian flair. Although time- honored rites such as eating unleavened bread (matzo), drink- ing four cups of symbolic wine, and reciting the Maggid (the story of the exodus from Egypt) remain, many foods present at a Seder in Italy might raise a curi- ous eyebrow or two here in the United States. Although cultural influence from the Sephardic Jews of the Middle East and Spain, as well as the Ashkenazy Jews of North- ern and Eastern Europe have helped shape Italian Jewish cul- ture, the original and reigning influence, at least when it comes to holiday foods, is that of the Roman Jewish settlement and its predominant Greek roots. The Passover table reflects it deli- ciously well with a number of traditional celebration dishes that bear a conclusive Mediterranean style. So what might be found on a typical Italian Seder plate? For starters, the standard sprig of parsley known as the karpas is absent, instead replaced by the afore-mentioned Carciofi alla giudia. The parsley is intended to symbolize spring and new life by way of its green color. I rather doubt anyone minds that the car- ciofi shows up more golden-fried brown than green! Stracciatella, a soup most reminiscent of egg- drop soup, takes the place of the traditional beitazh, a roasted egg suggesting sacrifice and new life. The symbolic haroset mixture of apples, cinnamon, and wine is replaced by haroset all'Italiana – a combination of oranges, ground dates, raisins, and figs that represent the mortar used by the enslaved Jews to build the Pharaoh's temples. Don't count on finding pun- gent plates of gefilte fish at a Jewish nonna's Passover table. In its place is carpione – a mari- nated-then-fried dish of cubed white fish. A common main course at the American Passover table might consist of a beef brisket or a roasted chicken. Nice, but certainly not what would be served in Rome or other regions of Italy! Mazzagne, a lasagna style dish created with matzo, vegetables and lamb stands as the shining centerpiece here, and is most likely accom- panied by a side dish of Insalata Sefardita. This medley of romaine lettuce, dill, and green onions takes the place of horse- radish, the classic maror — bit- ter herbs that symbolize and remind of the harshness of being enslaved. Possibly one of the most sur- prising Italian delights with Jew- ish roots that is enjoyed at Passover is Ricciarelli di Siena, that famous and delectable almond cookie. Most often thought of as a Christmas good- ie, research suggests that this particular sweet traces its origin to the Jewish ghettos of Siena. The story goes that almonds were not a known commodity in central and northern Italy until they were introduced by relocat- ed Jews. As the Passover season calls for unleavened products, ground almonds and other alter- native flours were instead used to create all sorts of delectables, including Ricciarelli. Numerous Pesach cakes such as amaretti, ciambellette, or moscardini are offered, as well, for the conclud- ing dolce at the Seder table. Over time, as Jewish popula- tions from throughout Europe either found refuge in Italy or came unwillingly as laborers, so came their cuisine. And as often happens with cultures that meld, knowledge and ways are lost. For a time, it seemed that the rich heritage of Jewish Italian cuisine was on this path; few outside of Italy and not many within had awareness of the culinary heritage or ways of preparation brought by the Jews. Fortunately, that tide appears to have turned, thanks to a renewed interest and awareness of ethnic cuisine in the foodie world. Cookbook authors such as Giuseppe Maffioli, Edda S. Machlin, and Joyce Goldstein are doing their part, as well, in pres erving the his tory and recipes of this distinct intertwin- ing of two beautifully rich – and superbly delicious – cultures. Passover in Italy: a beautiful blending of cultures Delicious almond cookies ricciarelli di Siena originates from Italian Jewish culinary tradition Artichokes "alla giudia" are a traditional Italian dish with Judaic origins

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