L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 32 L'Italo-Americano Gavi and Base Miles I press my weight down upon the cycling shoe, engaging its cleat with the bike pedal's U-shaped cutout. The shoe locks into the pedal with an audible "click." Cycling season begins with no more fanfare than that. In this early morning air, I am interested in simple mathematics: max heart rate = 207-(age)(0.7); base miles effort, 65-70% of max heart rate. Increase miles per day by 10% weekly. The long, slow bike rides that cyclists know as base mile training can make you hungry. Real hungry. And I am already planning what to drink with post-ride meals. All of which leads us to an Ita- lian wine known simply as Gavi or Cortese di Gavi. Often referred to as the "Great White of Pied- mont," Gavi is hailed by many as "white Barolo," a reference to one of the finest red wines of Pied- mont, Italy, and indeed, the world. Gavi's delicate scents of fresh fruit, citrus, white flowers, hints of almond and saline, are refre- shing after a bike ride. And Gavi's full, dry taste and high acidity pairs well with the kind of nutri- tious, clean foods I crave after long miles on the bike. To appreciate any more of what I'll tell you about Gavi, you'll need first to know something about the native Italian wine grape Cortese used to make Gavi wines. In addition to its primary home in Italy's Piemonte, Cortese does grow elsewhere on the Italian pe- ninsula. But we are concerning ourselves here with Cortese from Piemonte's southeast corner around the municipality of Gavi. On a map, you can find the area just above Liguria. It might be said that, in the zone's rather balmy climate, Cortese's forte is its abi- lity to maintain a high level of aci- dity even in the hottest of vintages. In cool years, Cortese's acidity can be so exceedingly high as to be sharp. Where the wine's fullness, i.e., its body, falls short of balan- cing Cortese's naturally high aci- dity, disharmony can result. The chalky, clay-rich soil of the Gavi hills helps encourage enough structure in the wines to counter- poise Cortese's acidity. Interestingly, on its website, the Gavi Consortium describes that, "…since the 2005 vintage, the Consortium has launched the Se- lection project for native yeasts, in collaboration with the Italian Biotechnology Laboratory - Enar- tis, to increase the production va- lue of the Gavi DOCG.The project was focused on the grape yeasts in organic and traditional vi- neyards, with the selection of those that can best enhance the Cortese features." Gavi DOCG requirements sti- pulate that its wines be made from Cortese grapes. Production rules allow for still bianco and bianco riserva bottlings, with aging re- quirements for bianco riserva set to one year with six months in bottle. Regulations also permit sparkling wines to be made, and a spumante riserva metodo clas- sico, the latter of which must be aged for two years, with eighteen months spent on lees. Gavi wines are characteristi- cally light and delicate, a distinc- tion that - how should I put this – some producers have perhaps mi- sinterpreted. That is to say, there is no reason to tolerate watery, ba- nal Cortese di Gavi. Neither should Gavi be exceedingly fat or rich, or subjected to oak aging to the extent that their simplicity, fre- shness, and detail are overpowe- red. As I've written before, the beauty of Cortese is to be found in the delicate flavor and detail of its wines (Riserva wines are ex- pectedly richer on the palate, with broader aromatics). In fact, it is Gavi's pleasant, easy-to-drink simplicity which is one of its greatest pleasures. And, in this, both Gavi and the bike are similar: remarkably delicate in their own ways, elegant in their simplicity, the magic of each found in small details. Look for wines labeled Gavi DOCG (or Cortese di Gavi). Re- commended producers include Broglia La Meirana, Michele Chiarlo, Ernesto Piccolo, La Raia, Stefano Massone. Gavi is astonishingly good with lean chicken or turkey breast on a bed of your favorite salad; grilled vegetables; fish; seafood salad; young cheeses. I'd heard that Ita- lian cyclist Marco Pantani would consume bowls of sausages and mascarpone after long training ri- des. I haven't tried it, but if I do, I should hope it to be with Gavi. Coda Approaching the top of a hill, I downshift, moving the bike's chain onto the small chain ring. Heart rate 137 bpm. Slow down. A yellow cycling helmet rises above the hill from the other side; sunglasses; wearing a pink riding jersey, a rider passes going in the opposite direction. I think of Ita- lian cyclist Marco Pantani. Il Pi- rata. The Pirate. It's been years now. But, I still can't believe it. RIP. La Raia Gavi DOCG Impeccably clean and aroma- tic. Delicate scents of fruit and white flowers, overtones of al- mond and ginger, and an attracti- vely warm finish. WINE NEWS TRENDS PROFILES JOEL MACK THURSDAY, MARCH 8, 2018 Gavi and the bike are similar: remarkably delicate in their own ways, elegant in their simplicity Gavi is hailed by many as "White Barolo" and it is one of Piemonte's greatest wines. Photo Credit La Raia

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