L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 32 L'Italo-Americano LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES THURSDAY, MAY 31, 2018 A sk anyone around the world to name a clas- sic Italian dessert and many will answer tira- misù. We tend to think tiramisù has been around for centuries (like many of Italy's tra- ditional recipes) but you may be surprised to learn it was created only in 1970 in Treviso. The origins of tiramisù are rather contentious, with about five regions in Italy claiming it as theirs. One thing nobody will disagree with is how delicious this perfect "pick-me-up" is! Researching the history of tira- misù though does offer an intere- sting read, from the romantic theo- ries originating in 16th century Florence with Cosimo III de Me- dici, to that it was eaten in Venice during the Renaissance, where Ve- netians would enjoy it with their lovers at night for more energy. Another interesting theory wants Turin as its birthplace and tells us it was made to give energy and im- prove the spirits of the Count of Cavour during his efforts to unify Italy. A rather boring (yet practical) story is that it was created from left over cake and coffee to avoid food waste. The name of the dessert has also evolved: it was probably called "ti- ramesù" - in Treviso dialect - and later became "tiramisù" in Italian. At the end of the 1960s actor, director and gastronomist Giuseppe Maffioli published a book, La Cu- cina Trevigiana: it was in this book that he described the Venetian cu- stom of eating zabaglione together with whipped cream and cookies called baicoli. Then in the 1980s Maffioli wrote about tiramisù in the first issue of the magazine he founded, Vin Veneto. He wrote it was a relatively new dessert, pro- posed for the first time in the re- staurant Alle Beccherie. Here, pa- stry chef Loly Linguanotto is said to have concocted it by choosing savvily ingredients always availa- ble in the Italian kitchen. Tiramisù has always been promoted as a very nutritious and restorative food, and its popularity hasn't waned. So what is the original recipe of tiramisù and are we still faithful to it today? As with many Italian dishes, plenty of variations exist. Some include the choice of liqueur and chocolate, or sponge cake and pavesini, a type of light Italian cookies, instead of savoiardi. Some use strawberries to garnish the fi- nished dessert (my mother would do this), others make it with ice cream, limoncello or even yogurt. The original ingredients are ma- scarpone, eggs, sugar, savoiardi, coffee and cocoa powder. You need to whisk the egg yolks and the sugar, then add the mascarpone and whipped egg whites, thus making the "crema mascarpone." The savoiardi are soaked in coffee and alternated with layers of crema mascarpone; the final layer of cream is dusted with cocoa. An important element is that crema mascarpone must be soft and dense whilst remaining light, without being completely absorbed by the savoiardi. As you can see, neither liqueur nor chocolate ap- pear in the classic recipe. If you prefer to add some liqueur, Marsala is the most indicated, although I have used Armagnac, which also worked well. Alcohol though is optional and by no means obliga- tory in tiramisù.  Some Italians will look at you in horror at the mere mention of adding alcohol, yet others (including pastry chefs) will always incorporate a liqueur into the recipe.  Be careful not to overdo it though, as a tiramisù drowning in alcohol is not at all pleasant. The 1 tablespoon I add gives a suggestion of flavour and aroma, complementing the overall Tiramisù, a simple dessert with many variations and an intricate history. Photo: Toni Brancatisano The unmistakable layers of a well made tiramisù. Photo: Toni Brancatisano TONI BRANCATISANO One dessert, many tales: tiramisù, its debated origins and many recipes dessert without overpowering it.  I have always loved tiramisù, and am intrigued by the variations to the recipe made in different parts of Italy. Every chef or Nonna have their own version, and they will most certainly turn up their nose to any other.  I am no exception, and I think mine is a perfect balance of ingredients and flavours.  I learnt to make the crema mascarpone from a pastry chef friend of mine, although I use a little less sugar than he does.  Tiramisù is great because it can be made a day or two ahead of time, which is wonderful news for anyone who likes to plan large or complicated dinner parties. Ti- ramisù can be made as an indivi- dual serve, or in one large bowl or baking dish. It is a dessert you can stop preparing half way (if you run out of a particular ingre- dient), put in the fridge, and con- tinue preparing several hours la- ter.  It is also a fun dessert to "construct" with guests, "espresso style," to be eaten straight af- terward. Today, tiramisù is one of the great classics of Italian cuisine. It is commonly known as a dessert, although I'd be very happy to see it served for breakfast. Italian breakfasts are traditionally sweet anyway, but that's another story! Ingredients ■ 1 packet savoiardi (known as Lady Fingers in the US) ■ 6 espresso cups of strong black coffee (preferably made with Italian Moka) ■ 3 eggs, separated ■ pinch of salt ■100g sugar ■ 300g mascarpone ■ 1 tablespoon Marsala, Rum or Armagnac ■ bitter cocoa ■chocolate covered coffee beans to serve Directions 1. Make coffee and set aside, allowing to cool completely. 2. Separate the egg whites from the yolks. 3. Add egg whites with a pinch of salt to the clean and dry bowl of an electric mixer and whisk un- til soft peaks begin to form.  Add half of the sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, until it is incorporated and egg whites are white, aerated and glossy. Put aside. 4. In another bowl, add remai- ning sugar to egg yolks, and beat until yolks are pale and fluffy and the sugar has dissolved. Add Ar- magnac or alcohol of your choice. Slowly incorporate mascarpone with electric beaters on low. 5. Fold half of egg whites into the yolk mixture, and then conti- nue gently folding in the remai- ning egg whites by hand. Refri- gerate if not using immediately. 6. Dip savoiardi quickly into black coffee and line a bowl, baking tray or small dish. 7. Spoon over mascarpone cream. 8. Repeat two or three times with savoiardi and mascarpone cream until you are satisfied with quantity, or until you have rea- ched the top of the container. 9. Cover with a generous sprinkling of bitter cocoa and de- corate with chocolate covered cof- fee beans. Buon Appetito!

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