L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 36 L'Italo-Americano Italian wine: Three Classics I t seems to me that the thing separating wine appreciation from mindless glass to mouth repetition is an abundant supply of drinker curiosity. For real wine lovers, to enjoy wine often means to follow the lines of one's inte- rests relative to the subject. That process of intelligent inquiry seems as important to any perso- nal understanding of wine as get- ting the juice into the glass does. A new breed of writers have collectively improved literature and scholarship in the area of Italian wine with books that lean toward the academic and scienti- fic. These include brilliant, com- prehensive tomes from wine cri- tics such as Ian D'Agata (Native Wine Grapes of Italy) and Kerin O'Keefe (Barolo and Barbaresco: The King and Queen of Italian Wine). While authorita- tive in content, much of the new Italian wine literature serves mainly wine professionals and serious learners of Italian wine, and can be intense for the casual survey reader. Below you will find brief introductions to three of my all- time favorite books on Italian wine. They are informative, easy- reading texts that I return to time and again. Some might say they go not as deep as the aforemen- tioned, instead offering wider viewpoints that include topics such as local vegetation and wild- life, complimentary cuisine or social tradition. But, I wonder if there is, perhaps, an argument to be made about what "deeper" really means and to whom. Please note that you will find these classic texts outdated in certain respects as the wine indu- stry, winemaking, laws and so on, have changed since their publication. But these are details that you can acquire elsewhere. Their core content remains rele- vant and massively pleasant to read. Italian Wine Victor Hazan. Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group (1982) Were there just one wine book in my library that I should save from fire, it might be this one. Although written 35 years ago, this overview of Italian wines provides perspective that you'd be hard pressed to locate in more recent efforts on the topic. Organized by "spectrum of taste," that is to say, style, as opposed to geographic point of origin, it is filled with evocative prose. The book gives "…direct answers about Italian wine, whether it is what wine to pick up for Saturday night's dinner or what fine differences there may be between a Pinot Grigio from Friuli or one from Alto Adige." Brunello di Montalcino Guelfo Magrini. Morganti Editori (2003) This book steeps the reader in the culture of Brunello and of Montalcino with a wonderful focus on the wine, land, produ- cers, production techniques, vineyards, and old vintages. The reader will also find information about flora that "…characterizes the surrounding Montalcino area…influenced by the nume- rous micro-climates that are pre- sent there." Local species of crit- ters – wild boar, partridge, owls, hares, and the like – was a thou- ghtful addition. Neither history nor tradition is forgotten.  A sec- tion dedicated to typical products and cuisine concludes with mouthwatering recipes where Brunello is included as an ingre- dient. Wonderfully shot photo- graphs convey an incredible regional intimacy and sense of place. A Wine Atlas of the Langhe: The Great Barolo and Barbaresco Vineyards Various Authors, edited by Carlo Petrini. Slow Food Editore (2002) A Wine Atlas of the Langhe is the conclusion of 10 years resear- ch of the great Barolo / Barbaresco crus and wines.  It describes "…the wines, the terri- tory, and the men and women who labor to produce these two great reds."  The book explores Langhe soil, topography and cli- mate, which uniquely influence these wines, never forgetting the connections to local cultural background that helped create them. Spectacular aerial photo- graphs enable the reader to hover above landscapes, soar above quaint hilltops and vineyards galore, providing a spatial per- spective of the area(s) being discussed. What I really like about this book, however, are its "eyewitness reports" – word sketches by some of the area's oldest householders that give the reader "…a privileged insight into social life and rural techni- ques in the words of the area's older residents," a background against which the Barolo and Barbaresco story can be under- stood. Whether you seek a more technical, scientific understan- ding of Italy's wine grapes, or simply want to learn a thing or two about what wine you've cho- sen for Saturday night dinner, I encourage you to settle in with one of the many great books available on Italian wine. Curiosity may have killed the cat, but it will surely enliven your appreciation and enjoyment of wine. Tasting Note Rainoldi Sfursat di Valtellina Similar to Amarone in pro- duction and style, the wine is intense, aromatic, and complex, with notes of plum, raisin, hints of mocha and smokey lapsong suchong tea. WINE NEWS TRENDS PROFILES JOEL MACK THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2017 Sometimes, the best books about wine are those that tell you about its soul, and history rather than focusing on all the technical details For real wine lovers, to enjoy wine often means to follow the lines of one's interests relative to the subject

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