L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2017 www.italoamericano.org 18 L'Italo-Americano ELIZABETH SALTHOUSE P rotector of the poor, patron saint of soldiers and the epitome of charity San Martino is one of the most beloved saints in Christianity. Hundreds of churches are dedicated in his name both in Italy and America and this month we celebrate the Festa di San Martino, Martinmas or simply St Martin's Day. But it's not just a day for quiet reflection. St Martin's, on 11th November, signifies much, much more with over a dozen Italian proverbs linking him to everything from new wines to weddings, Indian summers to flour mills and farming. Here's what to expect. If you land in the Castello ses- tiere of Venice on St Martin's day you might think that the residents are rioting. Or at least the children are, as Venice has a very particu- lar way of celebrating San Marti- no. The day starts quietly enough, but by the early afternoon or evening classrooms of children are parading through their dis- tricts. Some dress in crowns and red cloaks, some ride hobbyhors- es, others in their school smocks, but there's one thing the young- sters all know and that's that the more noise they make the better. Pots and pans are pressed into service as drums, wooden spoons as drumsticks and the tin lids as perfect cymbals. Toy swords are bashed against cardboard shields and the costumed kids go about singing at the top of their little lungs demanding sweets and treats to silence their racket. It's a way away from the life of St Martin, but great to watch and clearly the kids love it! So who was this Martino they sing of and why is he king of wine? The story started simply enough. Born around 316 AD in Szombathely, Pannonia, now modern Hungary, the boy was named in honor of Mars, the god of war, by his pagan family. He was destined for a military life like his father, studying first in Pavia, Italy where he became interested in the embryonic Chris- tian church. And at 15, the young- ster enlisted, as was required by Roman law, entering the imperial cavalry and heading to Gaul where he served for several years on horseback. One bitter night whilst on duty in Amiens, Martin was approached by a freezing, drunk- en beggar, clad only in rags and shivering from the cold. Instead of turning away the soldier took out his sword. But not in anger. The peaceful young Martino used his weapon to slice through his thick woolen, military cloak, cut- ting it in two before leaning down to give the man half in chilly soli- darity. It was the act of a humble, generous man and Martino proba- bly didn't give it a second thought. But that night as the beg- gar slept, warmed by his gift, Jesus came to Martin in his dreams to give the soldier half his mantel back. When Martin awoke the temperature had increased, his robe was restored and the legend was born. Martino would go on to be baptized into Christianity, becoming a conscientious objec- tor before finally leaving the Roman cavalry service that was increasingly at odds with his faith. News of his charity and piety spread, thanks in part to the con- temporary writer Sulpicius Severus. Veneration of the man became popular in the Middle Ages. And over the years local Italian customs sprang up to cele- brate the saint's wintry kindness. Festivities clustered around 11th November each year, shortly before the start of Advent, with seasonal crops, food and wine adding to the commemorations. And today we can trace old tradi- tions through the proverbs and adages that persist. San Martino's Day is a moment of celebration in many areas of Italy Saint Martin in the faithful moment he turned from soldier to saint "Oche, castagne e vin ten tut pe' San Martin" say the Piedmon- tese, inviting the faithful to keep everything including goose, chest- nuts and wine for St Martin's day. The link to chestnuts is obvious; they're literally falling from the trees at this time of year. Geese too are bred for the winter larder. But there's another link to the birds as legend had it Martin was initially a reluctant bishop, hiding out to avoid being found only to have his hideout betrayed by the honk of a goose. Today celebrations in many households include Saint Martin's goose and there's even a sugges- tion that the tradition was the pre- decessor to the American Thanks- giving feast. With the feast came drink with many proverbs link the saint to winemaking. "A san Martinu, ogni mustu è vinu" say the Sicillians, signaling the opening of the first wine for tasting as the must from the year's harvest ferments and turns to alcohol. Not all wines are ready to drink but still Italians say "A San Martino si lascia l'acqua e si beve il vino" – at St Martin's day you leave water and drink wine instead. Or "Per San Martino si spilla il botticino" advising that on St Martin's the small barrel is tapped. But despite Romagna's proverb "Par Sa' Marten u s'im- bariega grend e znèn" – everyone is drunk from big to small! – tra- ditionally St Martin's is a time to taste and test not guzzle the vino novello. It's clearly a time to reap the rewards of all the hard labor in amongst the vines and corn. Indeed farmers often used the time to marry off their daughters or make new land purchases whilst their early November days were quieter. But San Martino is not a holiday for winemakers and as soon as the first tastings are done the work begins again. Old barrels are traditionally cleaned out around St Martin's, ready for the new year. And from this day onwards vintners have just a few weeks to complete their pruning of the vines whilst they are free of buds, leaves and grapes as the old adage tells: "Chi vuol far buon vino zappi e poti a San Martino," whoever wants good wine should dig and prune at St. Martin's. Good advice. And finally, two late seasonal proverbs. Both deal with St Mar- tin's day weather, each coming at the day from the opposite end of the year. For sun-seekers St Mar- tin's summer – or an Indian sum- mer to you and me - lasts 3 and a bit days; "L'estate di San Martino dura tre giorni e un pocolino." Or for weather watchers the saying "Da San Martino l'inverno è in cammino" predicts that winter is on its way from 11th November. Either way, Martin marks the passing of the seasons as long days give way to wintertime. Little could that peaceful boy growing up in Italy have known that he would become so synony- mous with wine, sunshine and charity. His simple act of chilly solidarity during Roman military service, followed by baptism into the church sealed his story. And today St Martin is patron to the poor, soldiers, horsemen, horses, conscientious objectors and tai- lors. Unsurprisingly he's also a talisman for winemakers, tavern- keepers, the drunk and even patis- series although the connection there is less clear! Wherever you are on 11th November just don't forget to raise a glass of new wine to this particular saint San Mar tino's Day: celebrating charity, wine and sunshine LA VITA ITALIANA TRADITIONS HISTORY CULTURE

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